Yeonghwa-jeong Haejangguk

Yeonghwa-jeong Haejangguk is a long-running, old-school hangover soup restaurant in a quiet residential part of Gildong, Gangdong-gu, and it serves a single dish: seonji haejangguk, a soup with seonji (congealed ox blood). Soft seonji and tender cabbage greens sit in a rich beef bone broth that tastes slightly sweet and deeply savory. Locals come for breakfast or an early lunch. Homemade kimchi, kkakdugi (radish kimchi), anchovies stir-fried with shishito peppers and minced garlic are there for seasoning, and if each person orders a bowl, you can ask for extra seonji, cabbage greens and broth.