Jinnampo Myeonok

Jinnampo Myeonok, near Yaksu Station, has served North Korean food since 1965, when the owner's mother fled south and recreated the dishes of her hometown, Jinnampo. The white jjimdak (steamed chicken) is topped with blanched chives instead of green onions and served with a dip of vinegar, mustard and red pepper. Beyond the jjimdak, there are dumplings bigger than a fist in hot pots and naengmyeon, cold buckwheat noodles. Three generations have kept the recipes, and elderly refugees often fill the worn two-story dining room.