Mujigae Hof

Mujigae Hof is an old-school beer hall in the narrow alleys of Changsin-dong, near Dongdaemun Station, and it has served grilled semi-dried cuttlefish since the 1980s. The cuttlefish is thick and chewy, served with spicy mayonnaise sauce and fresh cabbage for wrapping. Blue lights and wooden tables give it a retro look, and groups of friends share big platters of seafood over cold draft beer. Prices are high for a neighborhood pub, but the portions are huge.